We are a family on a world tour: Orlane and Matthieu with our two children, Milo (5 years old) and Thelma (2 years old). To explore Patagonia with complete freedom, we chose the X-Wing, perfect for moving at our own pace and sleeping in remote places.

For 20 days, we traveled the legendary roads of southern Chile and Argentina, between majestic glaciers, wind-sculpted mountains, and emerald-reflected lakes. From Torres del Paine to Fitz Roy, passing through the Carretera Austral, this road trip offered us breathtaking landscapes and unforgettable camping experiences, close to nature.

Join us on this unique adventure, marked by the unpredictable Patagonian weather, wildlife encounters, and the joy of sharing these moments as a family.

*The names of the campsites are from iOverlander.
*The prices are what we paid (free for children).

This is a highly sought-after destination for locals from Coyhaique, especially in summer, when city dwellers seek to escape the urban hustle and reconnect with nature by swimming in a lake surrounded by mountains. At the far end of the lake, although not visible from La Paloma Beach, lies the mythical Cerro Castillo, which will be our next stop.

Day 1: Arrival in Punta Arenas
We land in Punta Arenas, the southernmost city of mainland Chile, located on the shores of the Strait of Magellan. Full of history, this former port city was a strategic point for sailors before the opening of the Panama Canal.

Day 2: Excursion to Magdalena and Marta Islands
We board with Solo Expediciones for an excursion to Magdalena and Marta Islands, famous for their exceptional wildlife.

Magdalena Island, a natural monument, is home to more than 120,000 Magellanic penguins. As we walk on the island, we are surrounded by thousands of these curious birds, strolling fearlessly just a few meters from us.

Our boat returns to the sea toward Marta Island, where a large colony of sea lions basks on the rocks. Unfortunately, the wind picks up, and we must turn back before reaching the island. A typical Patagonian setback!

Day 3: Pickup handover and drive to Puerto Natales
Today, we pick up our travel companion: our converted pickup truck. The day is dedicated to organizing: shopping, packing, sorting… In no time, our suitcases are almost empty, every item has its place, and we are impressed by the clever layout. The space is optimized down to the millimeter, and despite its compact size, we immediately feel at ease.

We drive toward Puerto Natales, a charming little town nestled along the Ultima Esperanza fjord.

We spend the night at Güino campsite, where we enjoy a hot shower and a good meal before beginning our adventure on the Patagonian roads.

📍 Güino Campsite ($10)

We begin our exploration with the Mirador Cóndor hike. From the summit, we have a stunning view of Lago Pehoé. The climb is steep, and after a first plateau offering a magnificent view, the wind picks up suddenly. It’s impossible to continue with the kids, so we turn back.

We have a picnic at Lago Pehoé campsite, which offers a nice view of the mountains.

In the afternoon, we take the Mirador Cuernos trail (1.5h round trip) that runs along the emerald waters of Lago Nordenskjöld before offering a spectacular view of the Cuernos del Paine, those wind-sculpted, colorful mountains. Along the trail, we cross guanacos and enjoy a breathtaking panorama.

Our last stop is at Laguna Azul: a peaceful setting offering a different view, where we can see the famous Paine Towers from a less frequented angle. We decide to spend the night here, rocked by the sunset.

📍 Laguna Azul Campsite ($13)

Day 5: Puma Watching and Lago Grey
Waking up facing Laguna Azul, under a slightly overcast sky. We head towards Lago Grey (2 hours of driving), but a surprise awaits us on the way: a gathering at the roadside catches our attention. In the distance, a family of pumas moves majestically. A suspended moment.

Upon arrival at Lago Grey, we walk up to the viewpoint to observe the floating icebergs. The children have fun throwing stones into the water while we enjoy the landscape.

It’s time to leave, but we need to go back through Puerto Natales to refuel before continuing towards El Calafate.
Tip: fill a jerrycan before entering the park to avoid this detour.

📍 Free camping Muelle Maclean (ideal if no wind)

📍 Free camping Rotonda de los Troncos (near a children’s playground)

Day 7: Perito Moreno, an Unforgettable Day
A day dedicated to one of the most impressive glaciers in the world: Perito Moreno, this gigantic ice wall that stretches at the foot of the Andes.

We board with Patagonia Chic for a one-hour cruise, bringing us close to the glacier’s bluish walls.

Next, we continue with a walk on the panoramic walkways, covering the blue, orange, and red circuits, offering views from every angle (3h / return by bus). We are fascinated by the spectacle of ice blocks breaking off with a deafening crash. A moment etched forever.

In the evening, we settle at Estancia Río Mitre, a warm place offering a splendid view of the steppe. We cook in the shared kitchen, a beautiful immersion into local life.

📍 Estancia Río Mitre campsite ($30)

Day 8: Peaceful Morning at Estancia and Heading to El Calafate
The wake-up is slow, rocked by the silence of the pampas. At Estancia, we have the luxury of parking wherever we like, so we take the opportunity to move away and savor the tranquility of the place.

We decide to extend the experience with a 45-minute horseback ride, a timeless break in the midst of the endless steppes. After this immersion into gaucho life, it’s time to get back on the road.
Before leaving El Calafate, we do an essential restock, then find a peaceful spot for the night by Lago Argentino.

📍 Free camping Lago

Day 9: Drive to El Chaltén
We reach El Chaltén in 3 hours, Argentina’s trekking capital, where the majestic granite peaks of Fitz Roy stand tall.
We make several stops to observe the landscape and a stop at the entrance to the town to get information about the hike at the visitor info center.

📍 Free camping Río de las Vueltas

Day 10: Fitz Roy Hike – A Challenge Conquered as a Family!
Departure at 7 am for the Laguna de los Tres hike (20 km round trip). We set out on this challenge thinking we’ll adapt based on the kids’ needs.
The beginning is tough, Thelma wants to walk but tires quickly. After a moment of hesitation, she agrees to go into the baby carrier, and off we go!
We pass by the Mirador Fitz Roy, where the view of the mountains is already spectacular. After several hours of effort, we finally reach the summit at 2 pm. The satisfaction is immense: Milo did it all by himself, a real champion!
Return to the campsite at 7 pm, exhausted but happy. A hot shower, an aperitif, and bed!

📍 Camping El Refugio ($30, very good)

In the afternoon, we hit the road north again.

📍Free camping Tres Lagos by the River

Day 12 & 13: Road to Chile
We return to ruta 40 heading towards the Carretera Austral, the legendary road that winds through Chilean Patagonia, between fjords, glaciers, and dense forests.
Before leaving Argentina, we stop to sleep:

📍Free camping Estancia La Ascension (great by the water with a toilet and wood-fired hot shower) a peaceful place where you feel cut off from the world.

The border crossing at Chile Chico is an adventure in itself: a dusty track, a small customs post lost in the middle of nowhere, and a thorough inspection of fresh products in our camper.

We cross the border at Chile Chico and enter the Patagonia Park, a still wild and preserved region.

This wild region is a sanctuary for wildlife, with guanacos, condors, and landscapes of valleys sculpted by glaciers.

In the afternoon, we arrive under a bright sun at Lago Jeinimeni, where we will also spend the night alone in the middle of this unique landscape: a lake with crystalline waters surrounded by forests and colorful mountains.

📍Free camping El Silencio

Day 14: Discovering the Carretera Austral
The sun is not out this morning, the landscape is different. We stroll around the lake and leave leisurely, stopping to see the caves with 10,000-year-old paintings. It’s quite a climb, and once at the top, we discover there’s a hike – Cuevas de la Mano (6.9 km loop). Unfortunately, we have to skip it because it’s already 1 pm, and we have quite a bit of driving ahead to reach Puerto Río Tranquilo.

We follow the turquoise waters of Lago General Carrera, one of the largest lakes in South America, before setting up camp near Puerto Río Tranquilo, the starting point for the famous Marble Cathedrals or glacier excursion.

📍Camping Pubu ($20)

Departure at 9 am to discover the famous Marble Cathedrals (Capillas de Mármol) on Lago General Carrera, a lake with a thousand shades of blue. The sky is cloudy, so we opt for a boat tour (1h30) with Mármol Expediciones. The crossing is peaceful, and despite the overcast sky, we are amazed as we pass inside these rock formations sculpted by the water. The reflections change depending on the light, giving the walls incredible tones.

On the way, stop at the Mirador Confluencia, where the Ibáñez and Murta rivers converge in a spectacular landscape, with mountains in the background.
We then continue to Cerro Castillo, where we will spend the night.

📍Free camping Museum Parking – great view

Day 16: Coyhaique – Change of Scenery
This section of the road is much flatter and more monotonous, with no particular relief. We reach Coyhaique, where we take a break in town: restaurant and shopping to restock provisions.

After a few hours of driving, we experience a radical change of atmosphere as we approach the Queulat Park. We find ourselves back in spectacular landscapes: waterfalls, lush forests, giant ferns, snow-capped peaks, and in the background, the hanging glacier towering over the fjords.

📍Camping Las Toninas ($20)

Day 17: Queulat Park – Hikes and Fjords
The cold is striking upon waking, but the day promises sunshine. We set out for a hike, but the Mirador Ventisquero (hanging glacier) trail is closed. Instead, we opt for the walk to Laguna Témpanos (30 minutes round trip): short but magnificent, offering a splendid view of the glacier and the turquoise lake. We also climb to the Mirador del Ventisquero, another beautiful viewpoint 10 minutes (round trip).

Lunch break with a breathtaking view of the Puyuhuapi Fjord, before hitting the road again. On the way, we stop at Puyuhuapi for some shopping and bread (excellent bakery address).

We find an idyllic camping spot by the Palena River, opposite the El Sauce hot springs. One of the most beautiful free camps of our journey: alone in the world, surrounded by snow-capped mountains. The children play by the water while we prepare a campfire. A magical evening under a starry sky.

📍Free Camping: Palena River – opposite El Sauce hot springs

We stop at Yelcho Patagonia Hotel, which offers camping with great spots equipped with BBQs. With the weather, we enjoy the warm hotel lounge instead, with its comfy sofas, a fireplace, and toys for the kids. In the afternoon, a little walk by Lake Yelcho despite the drizzle.

📍Camping Yelcho Patagonia Hotel ($30)

Day 19: Pumalín Park – Chaitén and its Huge Beach
We enter Pumalín Park, one of the gems of Chilean Patagonia, with its lush vegetation. This park, once owned by philanthropist Douglas Tompkins, is a model of conservation. We have a picnic in the wild before continuing to Chaitén.

We enjoy its vast beach, the sea air, and the children’s play area before settling in for the night.

📍Free Camping Chaitén Beach

Day 20: Ascent of the Chaitén Volcano
At 10 am, we depart for the Chaitén Volcano hike (4 km round trip). The trail is steep and demanding, with stairs of various sizes along the ascent. But the higher we climb, the clearer the sky becomes, offering stunning views of the coast and the caldera.

Once at the top, we picnic facing the smoking crater, still marked by the 2008 eruption. The clouds clear, revealing a breathtaking sight: the fumaroles, the yawning crater, and the surrounding mountains. An intense but unforgettable climb.

📍Free Camping Lago Negro

Days 21 & 22: Crossing the Fjords and Returning to Puerto Varas
We cross the fjords, rocked by the rhythm of the boat, and then continue our journey to Puerto Varas, marking the end of our freedom road trip.

Conclusion: 20 Days of Freedom at the End of the World
This road trip in Patagonia will remain one of the most remarkable experiences of our world tour. Traveling in a converted pickup truck gave us total freedom, allowing us to explore incredible landscapes, wake up by turquoise lakes, and sleep at the foot of mountains.

Between majestic glaciers, wild fjords, vast steppes, and lush forests, Patagonia amazed us more each day.

An intense journey, where every moment reminded us of how grand and precious nature is.