Our Road Trip on the Carretera Austral: An Unforgettable
Adventure Through Chilean Patagonia – Part 2
Por Johan y Delphine | 25 de mayo de 2024
If you missed the first part of our road trip on the Carretera Austral, one of the most legendary routes on the planet, I invite you to read it here. It covers the stretch from Puerto Varas to Coyhaique, a part also known as the Patagonia Verde.
Disclaimer: the images below have either been taken in March 2024 (on the way south) or in May 2024 (on the way back north to Puerto Varas), but the story is told as if the road trip was done in just one time.
After recharging our batteries in Coyhaique, both literally and figuratively, we are eager to leave the city. After all, no one thinks of concrete and incessant traffic when envisioning a road trip in Patagonia. So, we’re heading south again, and today, after a somewhat late start from the city, we aren’t going very far because we had spotted a nice iOverlander spot just 1 hour from Coyhaique: Lago La Paloma.
This is a highly sought-after destination for locals from Coyhaique, especially in summer, when city dwellers seek to escape the urban hustle and reconnect with nature by swimming in a lake surrounded by mountains. At the far end of the lake, although not visible from La Paloma Beach, lies the mythical Cerro Castillo, which will be our next stop.
Yet another epic camp spot at Lago La Paloma, just outside of Coyhaique.
The advantage of autumn is definitely being able to enjoy all these places, usually crowded in summer, all to ourselves. This evening at Lago La Paloma was no exception, and soon we lit a campfire on the beach and enjoyed the end of the day before cocooning in our camper. The next morning, we wake up to an absolutely radiant sky. Johan flies the drone and discovers the wonderful autumn colors that are now present in the region. April is approaching quickly, and the trees are starting to display shades of yellow and red.
As we return to pick up Ruta 7, we approach the Cerro Castillo massif through a narrow high-altitude valley already tinged orange by the trees. The valley is at 1000 meters altitude, and here the nighttime temperatures are already quite low in mid-March. Soon, we reach the top of the pass overlooking the true Cerro Castillo valley. Just below the pass, a well-known viewpoint compels us to stop to photograph – and drone – the Cuesta del Diablo, a series of serpent-like curves that are quite photogenic.
La Cuesta del Diablo, with the Cerro Castillo range in the distance.
There it is, we finally catch sight of Cerro Castillo, a massif that rises to 2675 meters and is crowned with spires giving the impression of a fortress (hence its name). If you’re feeling adventurous, the Laguna Cerro Castillo hike is perfect for you! It’s not so much the distance that tires (14 km round trip), but rather the positive elevation gain of 1269 meters. But once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with a magical view of the valley! Unfortunately, we have to abandon this charming idea due to the weather (once again…). We had planned to camp by the lake, but threatening clouds on the horizon made us hesitate… The gloomy weather the next morning will prove us right! We narrowly avoided being caught in the mountains under torrential rains.
Our last-minute changes in plans lead us to rethink our overnight stay. We decide to settle by Lago Alto, a small high-altitude lake nestled between two forests, where Cerro Castillo perfectly reflects in the water. Changing plans, we never expected to have one of the best moments of the trip. We have just settled in to have a coffee when suddenly, as if to thank us for passing by, the sky clears and we are treated to a magnificent sunset. Sunshine really changes everything. That evening, I can’t stop humming the lyrics of Charles Aznavour’s famous song, “(…) Misery is less painful in the sun,” who knows why!
Cerro Castillo reflecting over on Lago Alto. Pure moment of bliss.
Shake, shake, shake
This morning, we say goodbye to Cerro Castillo in the rain. Now, we’re not driving on paved roads anymore but on a bumpy track. The landscapes we’re passing through have been minimally altered by humans. The Mapuche Indians still inhabit these valleys just 50 years ago. Apart from a few isolated estancias, we don’t come across any traces of civilization. In fact, the road between Cerro Castillo and Puerto Murta is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful sections of the Carretera Austral. But it’s just a taste of what’s to come…
As soon as we arrive in Puerto Rio Tranquillo, a popular stop among travelers, we decide to venture onto the Ruta Exploradores, the X728, a dead-end road leading to the Exploradores Glacier. This road crosses a narrow valley with lush vegetation, surrounded on both sides by some of the largest hanging glaciers in Patagonia. It truly feels like New Zealand, once again. While the name of this road sounds quite nice, its condition, well, it’s less dreamy, I must admit. Hang on tight, this stretch of road is infernal! It shakes in all directions! Inside the camper, everything is turned upside down. Note to self: only buy eggs if they’re sold in a cardboard box! The fridge definitely needs a good cleaning now. Yuck! And don’t get me started on the dust that gets under the door. “It’s part of the journey,” Johan likes to joke. He’s funny, but clearly, he’s not the one sweeping and cleaning every night!
Advice: from the end of the X728, you can take a boat that will take you to the foot of the San Rafael Glacier, one of the largest in all of Patagonia. Alternatively, you can opt for a hike to the Mirador Glaciar Exploradores, which starts across from Lago Bayo.
Back in Puerto Rio Tranquillo, where I recommend hopping on a small boat to admire the famous Marble Cathedral on Lago General Carrera, Chile’s largest lake. Everywhere we go, I’m fascinated by the beautiful brickwork of the houses. Known as “adobes de madera,” they’re made from local wood and are a distinctive element of the region’s traditional architecture. It adds so much charm—I absolutely love it!
Lush valley with epic glacial rivers and lakes. This is Bahia Exploradores.
Hanging glaciers everywhere you look.
50 Shades of Blue
Once we left Bahia Exploradores and the area of Lago General Carrera, we were in pampa land for good. The landscape changed drastically and suddenly, leaving the lush greens of the narrow fjord-valleys for dry yellow grass, canyons and winding emerald rivers. Located just south of Puerto Bertrand, the confluence point of the Rio Baker and Rio Nef is quite impressive. On a trail starting along Ruta 7, we find the merging torrents impressive both for their force and the shades of blue mixing together. It’s a pleasant walk, and thankfully, the weather is beautiful, allowing us to leave our jackets in the car. It seems that as we head further south into the pampas, the rain gives way to sunshine, which is definitely a plus.
Confluencia Rio Baker/Rio Neff
Our First Guanacos
We’re embarking on a journey through Patagonia National Park, one of our favorite spots in Chile! I’ve been eagerly anticipating this one ever since I read online that it teems with guanacos. And let me confirm that information! As soon as we pass the park entrance sign, there they are, chubby and wooly as can be, grazing in herds, unperturbed and peaceful. Unlike them, I’m buzzing with excitement like crazy, you should see me! I have never seen them in my life before! And for me, a trip to South America without guanacos isn’t worth it (I do exaggerate! Well, maybe not…). After observing them for long minutes with my window rolled down, we venture into this magnificent and rarely frequented park. Will we be lucky enough to spot a puma? Well, we can’t miss the condors soaring in the distance above the park’s yellowed grasslands.
This park is divided into several sections (Jeinimeni, Tamango, Chacabuco) that stretch around Cochrane. It’s possible to trek across it over several days. Tomorrow, we plan a 20km trek, and we’re excited! Tonight, we hit the sack early to make the most of the beautiful ascent that awaits us. Good night, everyone!
The first guanaco we ever spotted, with Rio Baker in the background. The first of many (too many!)
A Beautiful Hike
We’re off on the “Laguna Atlas” trail, a relatively easy 20 km trek, although the uphill climb is quite significant (1000 meters, no small feat!). It’s a loop that we’re taking at our leisure, with countless photo stops along the way. What a joy to witness the peak of the autumn colors on the trees. We only encountered one person (and guess what? I jumped and screamed when I saw them! I really didn’t see that coming, a moment of solitude for Dedel). Following the rangers’ advice, we decided to hike the trail in the opposite direction from the suggested route. Why this choice? To tackle the steepest climb uphill first and enjoy a gentler descent later in the day. We loved this hike; the viewpoints were stunning, and the lagoons incredibly photogenic. I highly recommend it! Don’t hesitate to check the Conaf website for updated information and accessible trails.
Laguna Atlas trail, Patagonia National Park
Laguna Atlas trail, Patagonia National Park
Laguna Atlas trail, Patagonia National Park
Laguna Atlas trail, Patagonia National Park
A Shower, Please!
After yesterday’s sporty adventures around Laguna Atlas, we are really dirty, and wiping ourselves with wet wipes just wasn’t cutting it. We need a good shower! We decide to head to the small town of Cochrane where we spotted a little hostel on the iOverlander app where travelers can stop just to shower. Oh, what a relief! We were definitely starting to smell after the 20 km trek the day before. Once clean, we stroll through the slightly bustling streets of the center. A delightful smell of pizza draws us into a small restaurant where we immediately recognize the only other customers of the day: the group of Swiss people we had crossed paths with a few days earlier while climbing towards the Ventisquero Colgante viewpoint. The world is small (even smaller around here when you hardly see anyone!).
From Cochrane onwards, there are officially 238 km left until the end of the Carretera Austral, which finishes at Villa O’Higgins. Most travelers first stop at Caleta Yungay (or Caleta Tortel, which requires a little detour), and then continue on to Villa O’Higgins.
A few important points to note:
● At Villa O’Higgins, the road abruptly ends. Travelers on foot can take a ferry into
Argentina, but those with vehicles will have to turn back.
● Travelers with vehicles who want to continue south in Chile must take a ferry at Caleta Yungay to Puerto Natales.
● The vast majority of travelers with vehicles, including us, prefer to continue south via Argentina first, to explore El Chalten and El Calafate, before returning to Chile via Puerto Natales to explore Torres del Paine National Park. For this, you need to backtrack to Cochrane and take scenic Route 265 to the border town of Chile Chico. That’s the option we chose.
First snows of Patagonia
After our stop in Cochrane, we decide – somewhat reluctantly – to skip visiting Caleta Tortel and Villa O’Higgins. It’s a total detour of over 600km, which would require at least 3-4 more days to truly enjoy, and since we want to reach El Chalten quickly to catch the beginning of autumn colors, we are a bit pressed for time.
So, we backtrack 65km to Aldana (not complaining though, as it’s a pleasure to see the magnificent Rio Baker again with its turquoise blue color), and from there we head east towards Chile Chico. The 116km stretch of Route 265 is absolutely incredible. We drive along Lago General Carrera the entire way, and even though the road is in poor condition (once again…), the landscapes unfolding before our eyes make us forget about the bumpy ride.
The landscapes along Ruta 265 change at every turn. It is definitely worth the detour!
The landscapes along Ruta 265 change at every turn. It is definitely worth the detour!
Chile Chico isn’t exactly the ideal place to stay for several days, but if you have any last-minute mechanical issues to check, now is the time. Recent inflation in Argentina has driven up prices here, to the point where Chile has now become a cheaper destination than its neighbor, a situation that wasn’t true until early 2024.
The good news is that Chile Chico is also the starting point for visiting the Jeinimeni sector of Patagonia National Park. We take Route 753 into this valley of pampas and canyons. In the distance, we can easily make out the park’s giant peaks, already dusted with recent snow. In fact, there might even be snow in the valley tonight! Threatening clouds on the horizon suggest temperatures are about to drop sharply…
At the end of the road, there’s a dead end leading to the park entrance. The ranger barely acknowledges us, mentioning we can enter the park – and camp for free – as an exception (we still haven’t figured out why… maybe because it’s the low season?). We check out the 10 spacious camping spots and choose one sheltered from the strong afternoon wind. The weather is too miserable to do anything outdoors. We had planned to hike to the viewpoint overlooking Lagunas Jeinimeni and Verde, but that will have to wait for another time. We fall asleep to the sound of wind and rain… and wake up in the morning to a blanket of white! It actually snowed last night, on March 31st, at low altitude. What magic. The sun timidly appears, revealing the absolutely stunning autumn colors beneath the snowflakes already covering the branches. What a sight! A true painting. Johan delights in capturing it all, and we spend the entire morning walking around the lake and photographing our first snows of Patagonia.
On our way back to Chile Chico, the clouds have definitely given way to sunshine, and we stop to hike along the Piedra Clavada – Cueva de las Manos – Valle Lunar circuit. It’s a short 7km hike that’s well worth it, especially since it takes less than 2 hours with a 500m elevation gain.
This was our last hike and final stop on the Carretera Austral. After 18 days exploring these wild, rugged, and beautiful roads, it’s time for us to continue our adventure towards El Chalten.
Waking up to a blanket of snow, in Patagonia National Park
Waking up to a blanket of snow, in Patagonia National Park
Last hike on the Carretera Austral: Piedra Clavada – Cueva de las Manos – Valle Lunar circuit
Last hike on the Carretera Austral: Piedra Clavada – Cueva de las Manos – Valle Lunar circuit
Border Crossing
Finally, we leave Chile to cross the border into Los Antiguos, Argentina. For our first land border crossing, we were somewhat nervous. All that paperwork tends to stress us out. And when you don’t speak a word of Spanish, it’s even more daunting! But thank goodness for Google Translate! That day, we unwittingly learned a new word that would be very useful for the rest of our journey: “PADRON”. It’s the name of the vehicle identification document, and believe me, they take it seriously around here! Make sure to check the border crossing hours. Customs offices generally close around 5:00 PM, so be prepared!
The end
A road trip on the Carretera Austral in a camper is a guarantee of an unforgettable adventure in complete freedom! Imagine traveling this mythical route at your own pace, without the constraints of accommodation. That’s what we experienced, and it was simply magical.
Opting for a camper allowed us to fully enjoy the wild beauty of Patagonia. No hotel reservations needed, we could park wherever and whenever we liked. Waking up facing a majestic glacier or falling asleep by a turquoise lake, everything was possible in our cozy mobile home!
This freedom gave us a total immersion in nature. We could admire breathtaking landscapes at our leisure, without time constraints. From towering mountain panoramas to deep fjords, the Carretera Austral amazed us at every turn.
While the classic route is usually done in about ten days, we chose to take our time. A piece of advice: savor every moment, explore hidden trails, let your desires guide you… The Carretera Austral is an endless playground for adventurous souls!
In summary, a road trip in a camper on the Carretera Austral is the ultimate experience for nature lovers and freedom seekers. Don’t hesitate, go for it!
