Our Road Trip on the Carretera Austral: An Unforgettable
Adventure Through Chilean Patagonia – Part 1
By Johan and Delphine | May 25th, 2024.
Welcome to the Carretera Austral, the legendary “Ruta 7” that crosses the wild expanses of Chile for 1240 km. It connects Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins, one of the most isolated villages in Chilean Patagonia. Inaugurated in 1986 on the orders of General Pinochet to open up the region, this road has become mythical for its magnificent landscapes as well as its occasionally hostile character, to be honest! Although partially paved since 2010, some sections remain wild and bumpy, turning each trip into a real adventure. Fasten your seatbelt because it’s going to be a bumpy ride!
Disclaimer: the images below have either been taken in March 2024 (on the way south) or in May 2024 (on the way back north to Puerto Varas), but the story is told as if the road trip was done in just one time.
One of our favorite wild camp spots along the Carretera Austral, found on iOverlander. Wilderness at its best.
Love at First Sight in Puerto Varas
March 2024. After picking up our luggage at Puerto Montt airport, we jump straight into a taxi heading to the charming little town of Puerto Varas where we collect our camper. Wow, it’s beautiful! It’s love at first sight! It’s even prettier in person than in the photos! For a bit of background, Johan and I have been traveling the world for years. Our thing is 4×4 road trips. Used to sleeping in a rooftop tent, we have been eyeing the comfort of a fitted camper without ever daring to take the plunge, and it seems that blessed day has finally arrived!
To start this road trip in the best conditions (which means well-rested, showered, and with a sufficiently stocked fridge), we spend the night in one of the charming cabins of Bianca, the adorable owner of Cala Melí. A divine interlude before embarking on the big adventure of our lives! That evening, while I’m clumsily trying to skip stones on Lago Llanquihue, we witness a spectacular sunset! The light is worthy of a professional photo studio! Fortunately, the sky is perfectly clear and offers a stunning view of the Osorno volcano, the very first giant of many more to come! 🗻
On the recommendations of Pedro, the co-founder of CamperWorld Chile, we delight our taste buds with the famous mussels and fries at the Nosé tavern (and trust me, as a Belgian, I know quality mussels!). After this feast, we end the evening by stargazing from the jacuzzi on our terrace. Pinch me, I must be dreaming! 💫
Enjoying the sunset from one of the beach cabins of Cala Meli, in Puerto Varas.
Love at first sight. Our beautiful camper in front of the majestic Volcano Osorno in the background.
Hit the Road, Jack!
The next day, after doing some shopping at Jumbo (okay, the products at this supermarket are slightly more expensive than elsewhere, but at least they are varied and of excellent quality, which is far from being the case with other chains!), we hit the road heading south.
For geography enthusiasts, note that the Carretera Austral does not officially start in Puerto Varas, but in Puerto Montt. A few kilometers south of there, in La Arena, you need to take a ferry to reach the village of Caleta Puelche. Rather than taking the ferry, we decide to make a small detour to reach Caleta Puelche by road via the V69, which crosses the Cochamo Valley, nicknamed “the Chilean Yosemite” with its large granite cliffs. But before heading to Cochamo, we make our first stop at the peaceful Lago Chapo nestled at the foot of the Calbuco volcano. Quite a surprising fact: absolutely no one mentions this place, neither in guides nor on the internet! Only locals frequent it, and we say “thank you Pedro” for this great recommendation! This secluded lake gives us the impression of being alone in the world (and we love that feeling, don’t you?).
We walk along the shores for hours, joined by several stray dogs, incredibly gentle and endearing, typical of Patagonia! This stop is not only beautiful but also free, and it’s worth mentioning because in Chile, it’s rare to find such great experiences without having to open your wallet!
In this 100% wild setting, we get familiar with our camper. On the menu of the day: penne with pesto and Greek salad! During dinner, we have fun coming up with a nickname for it, and we unanimously decide to call it “Master Roshi” in homage to one of the characters from “Dragon Ball,” Johan’s favorite manga! We then fall asleep like babies on our IKEA mattress (yes, even though we’re wild camping, everything is comfortable here! My forty-something back is going to be happy!).
Pasta & sunset over Lago Chapo, the first wild camp spot of our Carretera Austral adventure!
Bad Weather
7:45 AM. The raindrops tapping on the roof of the camper pull me out of my sleep. For this first breakfast of the road trip, I prepare delicious avocado toasts (Johan loves them!). Here in Chile, avocados are incredibly good, it would be silly not to indulge! After this little feast in the warmth (thank goodness for the heater!), we pack up and hit the road! Unfortunately, the low clouds prevent us from stopping in the Cochamo Valley. We had planned to hike to La Junta and possibly spend the night there in our tent, but with this bad weather, it’s simply impossible. The “Patagonia verde” lives up to its reputation: gloomy! But it’s not green for nothing! 
With the extra time we have, we take advantage of it to drive along the coast on the R875, leaving the Ruta 7 at Contao. We hope to see some marine wildlife such as sea lions, or even better: dolphins! The road is in bad condition, but driving slowly, we see something in the distance! Look, a head popping out of the water! And another, and another! A small group of sea lions seems to be having fun in the icy waters. “Oh! Over there! Look!”: A dolphin just performed a beautiful jump! What a joy! I quickly make a wish as it’s the very first dolphin of this expedition!
Finally, we rejoin the Carretera Austral a few hours later at Hornopiren, where we will take the ferry the next morning. It’s a must for travelers as there is no road to reach Caleta Gonzalo; only a ferry can get there. A ferry that, moreover, must be booked well in advance. This season, we did pretty well by booking it only 7 days in advance, but in summer, you will need to book several weeks ahead of the crossing! Head to this site to plan your trip.
During the crossing, we discover the incredible fjords of Northern Patagonia. From the deck, leaning against the railing, we keep our eyes on the huge cliffs rising before us. Meanwhile, under our feet, jellyfish are everywhere, like plastic bags floating on the water’s surface, surrounding the boat on all sides. This journey feels like a real documentary film! I quickly go back down to get my hat that I left in the camper because it’s very chilly! Yes, it’s autumn in Patagonia, let’s not forget
Camp spot in Hornopirén, waiting to take the ferry.
Getting ready to embark the Somarco, in Hornopirén.
Keeping an eye out for dolphins on the ferry crossing between Hornopirén and Caleta Gonzalo, a five-hour journey through Northern Patagonia’s fjords.
Crossing Pumalin National Park
Once we arrive on solid ground, we drive into the heart of Pumalin National Park, a gigantic nature reserve of 3,250 km² where nature expresses itself in all its splendor. Less than 2% of its area is accessible to visitors, which still corresponds to about a dozen trails! This park is enormous, and we feel infinitely small within it!
Fun fact #1: It was created by Douglas Tompkins, the co-founder of The North Face, the American outdoor clothing and accessories brand. Funny, right?
Fun fact #2: It’s one of the rainiest places in the world! This explains a lot! 
It’s a true sanctuary harboring exceptionally rich fauna and flora. This is also where you can admire the last Patagonian cypresses, also known as “alerces,” some of which are several thousand years old!
The ferry ride and the hour of rough road that followed completely exhausted us. So, we decide to spend a night in Chaitén, in a spot found on iOverlander, our favorite road trip app. Anyway, the weather is still gloomy, making it impossible to see the surrounding volcanoes due to the low clouds. But that’s part of the charm of this road trip, after all. What would Patagonia be without the raging elements?
Chaitén
Sugar Addicts
Rebuilt after the volcanic eruption of 2008, Chaitén is fascinating with its wide, deserted avenues. It feels like being in an apocalypse movie! Especially since the wind is blowing like never before! If you venture into one of the coffee shops along the seawall, bundle up because they are very basic: no heating, no toilets! You’ll need to run to the Tourism Office to relieve yourself, so consider yourself warned!
One Earl Grey tea later, we hit the road towards the village of Futaleufú, known for its crystal-clear waters perfect for rafting. It’s a bit of a detour, especially since we’ll have to backtrack to return to the Ruta 7, but we’ve heard too many recommendations about this village, mostly inhabited by outdoor enthusiasts; we have to visit it. At Villa Santa Lucia, on the R7, we take route 235 followed by 233 to Futaleufu. The 76 km that separate us from the village are impressive. The road partially follows Lago Yelcho, a large crystal-clear lake surrounded by dramatic mountains. Johan stops every 2 km to take photos.
Arriving in Futaleufú, we understand why the region is so famous for rafting. The waters of the river of the same name are so beautifully colored that you’d want to dive right in, ignoring the chilly temperatures. In autumn, few people venture out for rafting, but we see a few anyway. The cold-averse person I am doesn’t really feel like getting drenched, especially at this time of year. So, we settle for a hike up to the Mirador Torre de Agua, offering a stunning view of the town. This climb makes us hungry, so we go in search of a little treat to snack on. We have to confess our guilty pleasure: we have become obsessed with Costa brand cookies. We know what you’re going to say: they’re super greasy and super sugary, okay, but they also have the power to make us smile when it rains (and that’s priceless!). Well, there must be some in this remote place, right? 
Lunch recommendation: go try the delicious homemade lasagna at Melia. Comfort food at its best, especially if the weather is lousy!
On the road to Futaleufú, making a stop at Lago Yelcho. For anyone who’s been to New Zealand, this is a familiar kind of sight.
View from the mirador Torre de Agua in Futaleufú.
Even on a cloudy day, the turquoise color of Rio Futaleufú is mesmerizing.
Beer and Relaxation
Back on the Carretera Austral, we head towards Puyuhuapi! But before that, we decide to make a short stop in La Junta. The landscapes continue to amaze us, and it increasingly feels like we’re in Tolkien’s imaginary world, filmed in New Zealand. Thanks to iOverlander, which we can no longer do without, we find an absolutely majestic wild camping spot. We’re alone in the world, surrounded by magnificent mountains on the horizon, a glacial river, and a clearing that appears out of nowhere. We decide to take a well-deserved 24-hour break here, especially since the sun is back, and we really need to bask in its rays.
The next day, we head towards Puyuhuapi. We would have loved to relax in its natural hot springs, but their slightly high price deterred the long-term travelers that we are! What a pity! But if your budget allows, go for it; it’s said to be a true little paradise (around €60 per person).
Instead of spending the evening soaking in hot waters, we enjoy our first sunny aperitif of the trip because YES, the sun is still shining! A miracle! Johan finds himself a local beer (brewed by a German,
just like the village itself) in the local mini-market, while I toast with a refreshing ginger beer, sprawled in my camping chair (what a wonderful idea to provide this gear! Thank you CamperWorld Chile!). Aaaaaah! We’re really enjoying ourselves, aren’t we?
Perhaps the best wild camp spot of all the carretera austral?
A Hanging Glacier
It’s 10 AM, and we’re about to see a curious natural wonder: a hanging glacier. Yes, “hanging,” you read that right! Fortunately, Johan remembered to book our tickets for the national park in advance because there’s no network or ticket office here! Another proof that we’re truly at the end of the world!
And off we go to start the Ventisquero Colgante trail! It’s relatively short (6 km round trip) with a 300-meter elevation gain to reach a stunning view of the famous hanging glacier and the waterfall flowing from it. It has rained a lot in recent days, so it’s muddy and slippery, but I quickly grab onto tree branches along the trail. Unlike most people, it’s not the glacier that I liked the most. I especially loved the very first part of the hike where we crossed a beautiful suspension bridge over the torrent cascading down: it was impressive!
Not sure whether the view from the hanging bridge or the view of the hanging glacier is best. Nevertheless, a hike worth doing.
A true institution in Chile!
