In this guide, I’ll share our top 5 hikes and all our favorite food and drink spots. Trust us—we explored the region for over two weeks!

El Chaltén is a true paradise for nature enthusiasts, adventure seekers, and photographers. With Johan, we explored the area for 17 days, navigating rugged mountains and imposing glaciers. To be transparent, I’ve never been so cold in my life at the base of these massive peaks, but oh my, the landscapes were stunning!

During our hikes in Patagonia, we were fortunate to spot some magnificent birds. Their vibrant plumage and graceful flight added an extra layer of beauty to the natural surroundings. Whether it was a Crested Caracara or an eagle soaring through the sky, these avian encounters made our trek even more memorable. These hikes are highly popular from December to March, but they’re worth experiencing in any season! When I visited this region in April 2024, the experience was even more magical as the autumn colors had set in. Just remember to check the weather and trail conditions before setting off.

Here’s my experience and some tips to help you plan this unforgettable adventure:

Length: 21 km (round trip) or approximately 8 hours of walking. Yes, it’s a long day, but every kilometer is worth it, I promise!

Starting point: You have two options to reach Laguna de Los Tres:
A) Starting from El Pilar offers a more enriching journey as you’ll traverse various trails. It’s also slightly shorter.
B) Starting from El Chaltén, with the drawback that you’ll see the same landscape on the return as on the way there (but who cares, it’s so beautiful!).

Must-take photos: Mount Fitz Roy (3405m high) reflecting in Laguna de Los Tres at sunrise, with snowy peaks and surrounding glaciers. Surprisingly, I preferred the view around 1 pm when the vibrant sky colors contrasted with the pristine snow. So magical! (Yes, we hiked up there 2 times: once during the day, and once for for sunrise)

Difficulty level: Only the last stretch is more challenging, with a steep 1-hour ascent on rocky trails (400m elevation gain). If you tackle this section at night to be on top for sunrise, don’t forget to fully charge your headlamp! I had a few mishaps with my battery draining quickly due to the cold, so I ended up relying on my smartphone’s light—it was quite inconvenient! Otherwise, the trail is well-marked, well-maintained, and quite windy. I was delighted to have brought my trekking poles along for added stability on the trails.

Camping: If you prefer not to do the hike in one day, consider pitching your tent at Camping Poincenot. Set off before dawn to witness a fantastic sunrise from the summit! I did this, and it was convenient to be based at this camp for other hikes afterward. Some tips:
● Bring earplugs; your neighbors might be noisy at night.
● The toilets are dirty and smelly, pinch your nose and pray your smartphone doesn’t fall in! ● To refill your water bottle, you’ll need to reach the river. The water below is drinkable and super fresh!
● Nights can be cold, even in summer. As a hiking trick, I filled my water bottle with boiling water before bed and tucked it into the bottom of my sleeping bag.

Fun fact: Did you know that the mountains from this hike appear on the Patagonia brand logo? Every time I see that logo (in other words, every day because it is one of Johan’s favorite brands), it reminds me of this incredible trek—a personal nostalgic moment!

Length: the total distance for the round trip is approximately 18 km (round trip) or +/- 7 hours of walking.

Starting point: Begin your walk to the Laguna Torre main trail from anywhere in El Chaltén. The official trailhead is at the end of Los Charitos Street, marked by a sign indicating the start of the “Senda a Laguna Torre” trail.

Difficulty level: With an elevation gain of only 490 meters, this hike is considered easy and presents no significant challenges—perfect for getting into shape. Compared to the trek to Laguna de Los Tres, it’s a walk in the park!

Must-take photos: When you reach Laguna Cerro Torre, prepare to be rewarded with a breathtaking view. The glacial lake and the imposing Cerro Torre massif (3128m high) reflect in its pristine waters—a sight that’s the ultimate goal of this hike. It’s an ideal spot to rest, recharge, and soak in the natural beauty before heading back to El Chaltén. While the lake might not boast the classic blue glacial color, the views are still stunning. Keep your camera ready to capture the floating icebergs from the Torre
glacier. And throughout the hike, those glimpses of Cerro Torre will make every step worthwhile—a truly rewarding experience!

Bonus: if you’re still fresh, try to push it all the way to Mirador Maestri. The view from up there is even more stunning, with direct views on the glacier and the lagoon with all the icebergs.

Camping: If you’re planning to camp halfway between El Chaltén and Mirador Maestri, Camping De Agostini provides pleasant spots for pitching your tent. The surrounding scenery is awe-inspiring, and it’s a convenient base for your adventure. However, brace yourself for the toilets—they’re downright disgusting! A horror, really. Don’t forget to bring your own toilet paper; trust me, you’ll need it.

Fun fact: Cerro Torre isn’t famous for its height, but rather for its notoriously bad weather. The nearby Patagonian Ice Cap generates Pacific storms that bring heavy precipitation and create fearsome winds. Imagine being up there, battling icy gusts and swirling snow—it’s downright spine-chilling! So, whether
you’re an intrepid adventurer or a cautious hiker, Cerro Torre’s tempestuous reputation adds an extra layer of excitement to the experience

Length: Approximately 21 km (round trip), translating to about 8 hours of hiking. Starting point: El Chaltén, our trusty base for Patagonian adventures.

Difficulty level: Medium difficult, this wasn’t a leisurely stroll; it demanded endurance and determination.

Must-take photos: Loma del Pliegue Tumbado is a chain of three rounded rocky peaks at 1340m, 1420m, and 1550m above sea level. It’s not spectacular and far from being as wonderful as its neighbors like Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy. However, it offers the best view of these mountains as it allows you to see them from the south/southeast side, whereas the usual hike allows viewing from the east side. It’s the only hike that allows you to contemplate Mount Fitz Roy and Mount Cerro Torre from the lookout at the same time. Compared to Laguna de Los Tres, very few people try to make it there for sunrise, so if you’re feeling adventurous, start your hike at night and enjoy an incredible sunrise all to yourself!

Fun fact: As you ascend, keep a close eye on the ground. You might stumble upon remnants of marine fossils dating back approximately 100 million years! These ancient witnesses add an intriguing layer to your Patagonian adventure. Imagine walking in the footsteps of prehistoric creatures, surrounded by majestic mountains and sweeping vistas. Loma del Pliegue Tumbado holds many secrets, and these fossils are part of its captivating story.

Length: Approximately 9,5 km (round trip), translating to about 3 hours of hiking.

Starting point: the trailhead begins at the end of Avenida San Martin in El Chaltén. Follow the “Senda al Fitz Roy” until you reach the well-marked turnoff for Laguna Capri, about 3 kilometers ahead.

Difficulty level: very easy

Must-take photos: Capture the iconic reflection of Cerro Fitz Roy in the crystal-clear waters of Laguna Capri. Frame your shots with the gnarled lenga trees that line the trail. Don’t forget to document the cozy campground by the lake, where fellow hikers rest and share stories.

Fun fact: Did you know that Laguna Capri owes its name to the Italian word “Capri,” meaning “goat”? Legend has it that early explorers mistook the local huemul deer for goats, leading to the name we know today.

Length: Approximately 22,2 km (round trip), translating to about 8 hours of hiking.

Starting point: You have two options to reach Laguna Sucia (the same options than for Laguna de Los Tres):
A) Starting from El Pilar offers a more enriching journey as you’ll traverse various trails. It’s also slightly shorter.
B) Starting from El Chaltén, with the drawback that you’ll see the same landscape on the return as on the way there (but who cares, it’s so beautiful!).

Difficulty level: Medium / difficult, especially since we did it at night and had to cross a “turbulent” river by hopping from rock to rock. I wasn’t comfortable! Crossing a river in the dark can indeed be quite an adventure! The adrenaline rush and the uncertainty of each leap must have made it memorable. Make sure you hike along with friends who feel comfortable, so they can help you cross the river. That being said, you can avoid the river crossing if you turn left towards Laguna Sucia after the suspension bridge that crosses Rio Blanco. We did the mistake of following maps.me route (that doesn’t cross the bridge), and therefore had to cross the river by foot. There’s also a lot of boulder scrambling involved, so of all the hikes this is by far the most technical one. Make sure to register with the national park’s rangers, as it is mandatory to do so to tackle that hike.

Must-take photos: The hike led us through landscapes worthy of scenes from ‘The Lord of the Rings’ (By the way, Johan couldn’t stop humming the theme song). The autumn colors combined with rain and low-hanging clouds made the walk epic! Unfortunately, it was so overcast that we didn’t see anything once we reached Laguna Sucia. All the peaks were hidden behind thick mist. It was a bit frustrating, I must admit!

Fun fact: It was so cold that day that my legs were frozen, stiff as wooden sticks. Not ideal, especially with kilometers of rock climbing ahead! Fortunately, we had our JetBoil with us to prepare a hot tea that revived me (literally and figuratively).

➡️ Do you love meat?
The best asado in town is at The Asadores. Opt for the 5-course menu, which is not only delicious but also very affordable! It’s truly the restaurant with the best quality/price ratio in the area! The selection of red wines is quite impressive, and the staff is very attentive to the customers. If you have dietary restrictions, they will modify the menu with a smile (Delphine is lactose intolerant, and she got a delicious homemade guacamole instead of the gratin dauphinois).

➡️ Do you love the cozy atmosphere of mountain chalets?
Head to La Cerveceria! Not only is the decor great, but the dishes are amazing! We’ve tried many of them, and we loved them all! Here are our top picks:
1. This is where you’ll find the best empanadas. Special mention goes to the spicy beef ones! In two months of traveling in Patagonia, we had never tasted an empanada so juicy inside and crispy outside! A pure delight!
2. If you’re tired of drinking industrial juice, go for the best 100% vitamin-packed juice in town! Ginger, Moroccan mint, and lemon for your vitamin C boost before hiking! Refreshing and 100% homemade: we love it!
3. We recommend trying the salmon ravioli. A tip: go for a mushroom sauce to accompany it! The kind of comfort food you need after a long day of hiking in the cold!
4. For a drink, opt for their amber beer. Brewed directly in El Chaltén, this beer is perfect any time of day or night!
5. The best apple pie ever is found at this restaurant’s counter. A tip, the portions are huge, so feel free to share it with someone!
6. The little extra we love: with every order, the house offers homemade starters: vegetable soup, herb bread, vegetable tapenade, grissini, popcorn. They really know how to treat guests here (except when the owner is in a bad mood, but that’s another story).

➡️ Do you love good coffee and are tired of the tasteless cat pee served almost everywhere in the country?
Go to the coffee shop Paisa! They have something for everyone: V60, Chemex, Aeropress… enough to wake you up before starting the Fitz Roy trail! Don’t like coffee? Order a banana/dulce de leche smoothie: it’s so smooth and fresh you’ll drink it in one go!

➡️ Do you love ice cream?
We have an unmissable address: Domo Blanco. The flavors are incredibly indulgent (dulce de leche, almonds, white chocolate, tiramisu…) and you can choose the size of your cone (from tiny to massive).

➡️ Are you going hiking all day and looking for a tasty and easy-to-carry lunch?
Head to Banneton! They offer a variety of different empanadas, vegan pastries, homemade cookies, and occasionally, delicious chocolate energy balls!

➡️ Do you dream of devouring a pizza?
The best pizza in town is undoubtedly at Laborum Pizza! The crust is incredible, and the ingredients are ultra-fresh and juicy. Their little twist? You can order half a pizza of one type and the other half of another. Convenient when you want to try the whole menu! Oh, and there’s no WiFi here, so don’t count on paying with your smartphone.

➡️ Are you low on cash but very hungry?
We recommend the small bakery Que Rika. It may not look like much, but they offer really nice empanadas! The chicken ones were yummy! Here, you can only pay in cash, and they don’t provide bags, so come prepared!

➡️ A tip from friends: do your grocery shopping before arriving in El Chaltén (in the town of Perito Moreno, for example, if you’re coming from the north; otherwise in El Calafate if coming from the south) because here, the supermarkets are almost empty, the prices are exorbitantly high, and fresh products are very rare. It’s our worst experience of the trip in terms of supermarkets, just to be transparent with you!

➡️ Are you going camping and wondering what to eat during your trek?
Having tried all the brands of dehydrated food sold in El Chaltén, we recommend the CAMP brand. We loved the rice range (very filling) as well as the lentil range! Bring a long-handled spoon to scrape the bottom.

Bonus tip for road trippers

Looking for a mechanic for a small repair? Next to the Paisa coffee shop, you’ll find a mechanic who also operates as a taxi driver. A valuable find considering the nearest town is over 2 hours away!

Are you looking for a cozy and well-located hotel? Chaltén Suites has all the qualities of a top-notch place! Special mention goes to the spacious and hot showers, a real delight after returning from a 3-day trek! The bedding is plush, and the staff is lovely. The breakfast is hearty; sit by the windows to enjoy the view of Fitz Roy.