A week of exploration in the Atacama Desert
By Johan and Delphine | May 23th, 2025 | IG Johan – IG Delphine
The Atacama Desert has captivated adventure lovers for centuries. It’s a world apart, where reality
blends with the imaginary. One might wonder if they’re in a scene from Denis Villeneuve’s “Dune” or
if Saint-Exupéry’s Little Prince will soon appear. The region’s end-of-the-world vibes explain why it’s
been used as a testing site to simulate Mars expeditions!
Imagine a desert plateau stretching 1,600 kilometers along the Andes, with majestic mountains to
the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west. Incredible, right? Each grain of sand tells a story millions
of years old. The Atacama Desert is much more than an arid landscape; it’s an open book on the
geological history of our planet.
So, let’s embark on a memorable (and very dusty) road trip! I’m sure your eyes will itch just reading
about our adventures! Ready to bet?
Renting out a 4×4 camper in San Pedro de Atacama will not only help you save on a lot of money (accommodation is
expensive in that part of Chile), but will also allow you to drive on the gravel roads without any issue!
Wild Wild West
Our starting point is San Pedro de Atacama, a small village perched in the Andes at an altitude of
2,407 meters. We arrive with a significant advantage: unlike most tourists, we are ALREADY
acclimated to the altitude after spending over a month at over 3,000 meters! Behind the wheel of
our camper, we come straight from Sud Lípez in Bolivia. The border crossing went smoothly! We’re
getting the hang of it now, almost becoming pros at administrative jargon in Spanish!
But first, an urgent mission: devouring a pain au chocolat from La Franchuteria. It’s said to be
delicious; all the blogs mention it. And after weeks of porridge for breakfast, I crave (or need?) a
crispy pastry! Spoiler alert: it was divine! I highly recommend this place!
With our camper, we venture into the dirt streets. The first thing that strikes me is the adobe houses
(and I’m not talking about the graphic design software). Adobe is an institution here. It’s a coating
made from a mix of clay, sand, and straw. All the facades are coated with it. Its terracotta color
blends perfectly with the desert landscapes. We feel like we’re in a Far West setting; only the
tumbleweed rolling down the street is missing.
After a hot shower at the local campsite (for 3€ per person, we couldn’t pass it up – found on
iOverlander) and some grocery shopping, we set off in search of a high spot to spend the night.
There’s no shortage of terrain here. We witness the sunset over the Licancabur volcano. Around us,
the desert landscapes stretch as far as the eye can see. A bit further, guides have set up picnic tables
and served pisco sours to some lucky tourists. Quite a nice concept, right?
Volcan Licancabur in the background, at sunset, as seen from our camp spot for the night.
The Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache
After immersing ourselves in the Far West atmosphere of San Pedro de Atacama, we head to explore
another gem of the desert: the Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache. The road to get there is unpaved,
but fortunately, our trusty 4×4 is ready to tackle the rocky paths (what would we do without it?).
Upon arrival, we discover a set of several saltwater lagoons nestled in the heart of the desert. Their
diameters range from 3 to 30 meters, and their turquoise waters stand out beautifully against the
surrounding landscape. Imagine little celestial eyes piercing the white earth of the Cordillera de la
Sal. It’s a breathtaking, almost unreal sight!
The high salt concentration in the lagoon water would allow me to float effortlessly. Unfortunately,
it’s no longer possible to swim there as sunscreens have somewhat damaged the fragile ecosystem.
So, we content ourselves with admiring these lagoons from the wooden walkway above, offering an
incredible panoramic view. The silence is so enveloping that we start speaking in whispers. Shhh, it
seems the desert itself is whispering its secrets to us.
Note: You can still swim (or float, like you were on the Dead Sea) at Laguna Cejar, another famous
spot around San Pedro.
The
The lagunas escondidas de Baltinache.
An absolute gem, only found in the Atacama desert.
This main lagoon used to be of turquoise color and people were allowed to swim (float) in it. It’s not forbidden to do so, as
the ecosystem is recovering.
The Valle de la Luna
The sun rises slowly over the Atacama Desert, bathing the sand dunes in golden light. After breakfast at La Franchuteria (again!), we venture into the Valle de la Luna. A dream-like name, isn’t it? Sculpted by wind and time, this lunar landscape is breathtaking. An unmissable spot to discover! The red sand dunes, deep canyons, and eroded rock formations are all natural masterpieces. The colors change throughout the day, from copper to pale pink. How beautiful! On our way back, we stop at the free Likan-Antay viewpoint to admire the incredible rock formations undulating before our eyes. We emphasize that it’s free because, as you’ll see, everything in San Pedro costs something. From the small local viewpoint to visiting a lagoon.
Every attraction around San Pedro de Atacama requires an entry fee. Everything, or almost. This famous Mirador Likan-Antay is free, and is the only one around to be so. Enjoy it while it lasts!
The Valle de la Muerte
Located near the Valley of the Moon, the Valle de la Muerte (aka Valle de Marte, it depends) is just as fascinating. Imagine orange sand dunes stretching as far as the eye can see, shaped by millions of years of erosion. The desert winds have slowly sculpted these undulating forms, creating a playground for thrill-seekers. And this is where sandboarding comes into play! Sandboarding is like surfing, but on sand. We watched some brave tourists launch from the dune tops, sliding down at high speed. The sensations seemed incredible, but let’s be honest: climbing back up after each descent must be exhausting. For some, it’s a physical challenge. But for others, like me, it’s a real ordeal! The idea of carrying my board up the dune each time quickly sapped my motivation!
Fortunately, there’s an equally magical alternative: watching the sunset from the heights of the Valle de la Muerte. So, we opted for this 100% lazy option (although we had to walk 25 minutes to reach the viewpoint). The majestic Andes volcanoes stood before us, their peaks taking on pink and golden hues. It was a breathtaking sight, a perfect backdrop for an unforgettable moment that Johan eagerly captured with his camera!
Valle de la Muerte, or valle de Marte?
Sandboarding the grand dune of the Valle de la Muerte.
Sunset from the mirador of Valle de la Muerte. It is a 45-min walk (roundtrip) to get there, from the parking lot at the sand dune.
The Tatio Geysers
Unlike us, don’t miss these natural curiosities! Don’t repeat our mistake: the night before, we watched two back-to-back episodes of “House of the Dragon.” The result: we never managed to get up at 4AM to set off! So, we had to skip the Tatio Geysers (best visited early in the morning as that’s when the geysers are most active). However, it wasn’t a regret because we had the chance to see the Sol de Mañana geysers a few days earlier in the Sud Lípez region of Bolivia. Those steam jets piercing the cold air created an unreal spectacle.
Piedras Rojas
It’s quite a climb here! At 4,000 meters above sea level, the Piedras Rojas stand like coppery jewels. Their reddish color contrasts beautifully with the salt lagoons and the snowy peaks surrounding them. But this postcard-worthy scenery is hard-earned! This morning, the wind lashes my face, the cold bites my cheeks, and I can barely speak as my jaw is numb from the cold! Barely able to talk, I struggle to take photos, my fingers numb like ice. My breath is short, and these climatic conditions remind me just how extreme this high-altitude desert is.
On the way to the lagoon, the gusts of wind literally push me, sometimes making me stray from my path. And then suddenly, my eyes marvel at such raw beauty. The lagoons, frozen in time, reflect the deep blue sky, and the vicuñas, these elegant creatures, move gracefully across the arid lands. The Piedras Rojas are definitely the silent guardians of a world apart.
Moon-like landscape at 4,000m above sea level.
The famous red stones aka Piedras Rojas.
Lagunas Miscanti and Miñiques
We hit the road again, this time heading to the Lagunas Miscanti and Miñiques, perched at 4,200 meters above sea level. As I open the car door, I’m literally whipped by a gust of wind. Okay, message received, the little hike ahead won’t be a walk in the park, but I brace myself and put on my windbreaker. I venture forward with my head down. In the distance, yellow tufts of grass surround the lagoons, with purple volcanoes piercing the blue sky in the background. It’s absolutely magnificent, but the icy wind somewhat spoils the view. I’m freezing. Quickly, I run back to the car!
Note: For Piedras Rojas and the altiplano lagoons, you must book your tickets in advance on the Socaire website. Choose a time slot, then on the day of your visit, present your QR code at the Socaire village ticket office an hour before your scheduled visit. A somewhat complex process, but it runs smoothly.
The lagunas altiplanicas are located 4,200m above sea level. You’ll find plenty of wildlife around if you can wait patiently.
An Elegant Ballet
The Salar de Atacama, an immense salt desert, is the playground of flamingos. For an hour, at sunset, we watch them gracefully move around the Chaxa lagoon. I’m captivated by such beauty. It’s a true paradise for bird watchers, a prime observation post for flamingos! Three species share the stage: the James flamingo, the Chilean flamingo, and the Andean flamingo. The first, the smallest, measures about 90 cm. It’s easily recognizable with its black and yellow beak. We walked between the marshy and dry areas, grimacing slightly at the strong smell emanating from the water. This sulfurous fragrance comes from the ecosystem and the algae that feed the local fauna. It clearly smelled like a stink bomb!
Visiting Laguna Chaxa at sunset (or sunrise) is the best time to witness lots of activity from the flamingos.
The volcanoes of the high altiplano reflecting on Laguna Chaxa at sunset.
Goodbye, San Pedro
Our last day in the region is an opportunity to stroll through the streets of San Pedro. Johan dreams of having ice cream, and by a happy coincidence, we find an ice cream shop on the corner of a street. Luckily, most of their ice creams are lactose-free, so I indulge in a scoop of “passion fruit” and another of “desert flower” (which tasted strangely like violet). However, we had somewhat forgotten that ice cream and desert dust don’t mix well. Quickly, we rush into the car to enjoy our cones sheltered from the sand. Thus, we leave San Pedro to head down to the coastline of the Atacama desert after months spent at high altitude! Getting back to sea level will feel strange, but it also means that new adventures await us!
Typical Adobe house in San Pedro de Atacama.
El Mano del Desierto
I’ve heard about the Mano del Desierto, this enigmatic sculpture that rises from the aridity like a silent call, and I really want to see it with my own eyes. After hours of driving, we arrive at the precise spot where the Hand stands. There it is, massive and solitary, perched at 1,100 meters above sea level. Its concrete fingers seem to stretch towards the sky, as if trying to touch infinity. I approach it and touch it. Its rough texture reminds me of the harshness of the desert. Why a
hand? Why here? For the record, know that this Hand is much more than a sculpture; it is a symbol of human vulnerability and helplessness. Created in 1992 by Chilean sculptor Mario Irarrázabal, it commemorates the human rights violations perpetrated by the Pinochet regime. Every centimeter of this giant hand bears an invisible weight, a story buried in the sand. I take photos, but none can capture the immensity of this moment. I let my fingers glide over the warm surface, imagining the thousands of hands that have touched these same fingers before me. Unfortunately, this suspended moment is interrupted by a huge truck that parks right in front. Its driver and his passenger then start a photo shoot with their vehicle. Behind me, a tuned car waits its turn. An elderly lady gets out and actually starts writing her name on the stone! I admit, it somewhat ruined the moment. Fortunately, I had the Hand to myself when I arrived. A stroke of luck, no doubt. I leave, but the Hand of the Desert remains etched in my memory, like an eternal imprint!
A giant hand coming out from nowhere in the middle of the Atacama desert.
Pan de Azucar National Park
In Chile, on the Pacific coast, stands the magnificent Pan de Azucar National Park, whose name literally means “sugar loaf” in reference to the rocky peaks that resemble… sugar loaves. Why not, after all? This park was on our list, but due to lack of time, we had to skip it. We made do with the free version: sleeping on the beach, right next to it! However, if you get the chance, go for it! The hike to the mirador offers a panoramic view of the ocean, white sandy beaches, and distant islands. And if you’re lucky, you might spot dolphins playing in the waves! This hidden gem on the northern coast attracts few tourists, so chances are you’ll have it all to yourself. Enjoy it! And don’t forget to tell me about your experience!
Desierto Florido National Park
The newspapers have been talking about nothing else for days in the winter of 2024: although
it’s winter, the Atacama Desert, considered the driest place on the planet, has adorned itself
with purple flowers over several kilometers! And we’re right here, just south of Copiapó! It’s
what you call being in the right place at the right time! We decide to rush to see this unusual
phenomenon due to exceptional rainfall in this northern region of Chile. In the distance, we can
indeed see pinkish hues on the hills. As we get closer, we see them: the famous “patas de
guanaco,” these purple flowers covering the ground by the thousands! Without delay, we launch
the drone because the sun is about to hide behind the mountain! For those who might be in the
area, that strange phenomenon usually happens in Spring, but you can never be sure… To read
more about it, click here.
Desierto Florido National Park is located just south of the city of Copiapó. This incredible phenomenon usually only happens in the Spring (not every year though), but very very rarely in the winter, like we witnessed in July 2024.
Conclusion
Most tourists traveling to the Atacama Desert spend between 3 and 6 days visiting the famous natural attractions around San Pedro de Atacama. The most common way to do this is by joining a tour. However, we prefer to be fully autonomous when it comes to traveling and exploring, especially in very touristy places like San Pedro, where everything quickly gets crowded and prices soar.
By renting one of our campers, you not only save a lot on accommodation and tours but also gain the freedom to explore the most natural spots at your own pace, at times that suit you best.
If you have a bit more time, you could rent from Santiago and enjoy the drive all the way to San Pedro, passing by beautiful places such as Desierto Florido National Park, Pan de Azucar National Park, or Mano del Desierto. These locations are too far from San Pedro for a day visit.
Our recommendation: allow 10-15 days to fully explore the Atacama Desert. It truly is a unique place on our planet and is worth taking the time to fully enjoy.
- A week of exploration in the Atacama Desert
- Wild Wild West
- The Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache
- The Valle de la Luna
- The Valle de la Muerte
- The Tatio Geysers
- Piedras Rojas
- Lagunas Miscanti and Miñiques
- An Elegant Ballet
- Goodbye, San Pedro
- El Mano del Desierto
- Pan de Azucar National Park
- Desierto Florido National Park
- Conclusion
Otros Recorridos
