{"id":1233,"date":"2024-08-28T13:15:10","date_gmt":"2024-08-28T16:15:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/camperworldchile.com\/?p=1233"},"modified":"2025-09-29T23:37:18","modified_gmt":"2025-09-30T02:37:18","slug":"carretera-austral","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/camperworldchile.com\/fr\/carretera-austral\/","title":{"rendered":"Carretera Austral"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Our Road Trip on the Carretera Austral: An Unforgettable
\nAdventure Through Chilean Patagonia – Part 1<\/h2><\/div>

By Johan and Delphine | May 25th, 2024 | IG Johan<\/a> – IG Delphine<\/a> <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>

Welcome to the Carretera Austral, the legendary “Ruta 7” that crosses the wild expanses of Chile for 1240 km. It connects Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins, one of the most isolated villages in Chilean Patagonia. Inaugurated in 1986 on the orders of General Pinochet to open up the region, this road has become mythical for its magnificent landscapes as well as its occasionally hostile character, to be honest! Although partially paved since 2010, some sections remain wild and bumpy, turning each trip into a real adventure. Fasten your seatbelt because it\u2019s going to be a bumpy ride!<\/p>\n

Disclaimer: the images below have either been taken in March 2024 (on the way south) or in May 2024 (on the way back north to Puerto Varas), but the story is told as if the road trip was done in just one time.<\/em><\/h3><\/div>

\"Carretera<\/span><\/div>
One of our favorite wild camp spots along the Carretera Austral, found on iOverlander. Wilderness at its best.<\/h5><\/div>

Love at First Sight in Puerto Varas<\/h2><\/div>

March 2024. After picking up our luggage at Puerto Montt airport, we jump straight into a taxi heading to the charming little town of Puerto Varas where we collect our camper. Wow, it’s beautiful! It’s love at first sight! It’s even prettier in person than in the photos! For a bit of background, Johan and I have been traveling the world for years. Our thing is 4×4 road trips. Used to sleeping in a rooftop tent, we have been eyeing the comfort of a fitted camper without ever daring to take the plunge, and it seems that blessed day has finally arrived! \udb81\ude97<\/p>\n

To start this road trip in the best conditions (which means well-rested, showered, and with a sufficiently stocked fridge), we spend the night in one of the charming cabins of Bianca, the adorable owner of Cala Mel\u00ed<\/u><\/a>. A divine interlude before embarking on the big adventure of our lives! That evening, while I\u2019m clumsily trying to skip stones on Lago Llanquihue, we witness a spectacular sunset! The light is worthy of a professional photo studio! Fortunately, the sky is perfectly clear and offers a stunning view of the Osorno volcano, the very first giant of many more to come! \ud83d\uddfb<\/p>\n

On the recommendations of Pedro, the co-founder of CamperWorld Chile, we delight our taste buds with the famous mussels and fries at the Nos\u00e9<\/u><\/a> tavern (and trust me, as a Belgian, I know quality mussels!). After this feast, we end the evening by stargazing from the jacuzzi on our terrace. Pinch me, I must be dreaming! \ud83d\udcab<\/h3><\/div>

\"atardecer<\/span><\/div>
Enjoying the sunset from one of the beach cabins of Cala Meli, in Puerto Varas.<\/p><\/h5><\/div>
\"Camper<\/span><\/div>
Love at first sight. Our beautiful camper in front of the majestic Volcano Osorno in the background.<\/h5><\/div>

Hit the Road, Jack!<\/h2><\/div>

The next day, after doing some shopping at Jumbo (okay, the products at this supermarket are slightly more expensive than elsewhere, but at least they are varied and of excellent quality, which is far from being the case with other chains!), we hit the road heading south.<\/p>\n

For geography enthusiasts, note that the Carretera Austral does not officially start in Puerto Varas, but in Puerto Montt. A few kilometers south of there, in La Arena, you need to take a ferry to reach the village of Caleta Puelche. Rather than taking the ferry, we decide to make a small detour to reach Caleta Puelche by road via the V69, which crosses the Cochamo Valley, nicknamed \u201cthe Chilean Yosemite\u201d with its large granite cliffs. But before heading to Cochamo, we make our first stop at the peaceful Lago Chapo nestled at the foot of the Calbuco volcano. Quite a surprising fact: absolutely no one mentions this place, neither in guides nor on the internet! Only locals frequent it, and we say “thank you Pedro” for this great recommendation! This secluded lake gives us the impression of being alone in the world (and we love that feeling, don\u2019t you?).<\/p>\n

We walk along the shores for hours, joined by several stray dogs, incredibly gentle and endearing, typical of Patagonia! This stop is not only beautiful but also free, and it\u2019s worth mentioning because in Chile, it\u2019s rare to find such great experiences without having to open your wallet!<\/p>\n

In this 100% wild setting, we get familiar with our camper. On the menu of the day: penne with pesto and Greek salad! During dinner, we have fun coming up with a nickname for it, and we unanimously decide to call it \u201cMaster Roshi\u201d in homage to one of the characters from \u201cDragon Ball,\u201d Johan’s favorite manga! We then fall asleep like babies on our IKEA mattress (yes, even though we\u2019re wild camping, everything is comfortable here! My forty-something back is going to be happy!).<\/h3><\/div>

\"Atardecer<\/span><\/div>
Pasta & sunset over Lago Chapo, the first wild camp spot of our Carretera Austral adventure!<\/h5><\/div>

Bad Weather<\/h2><\/div>

7:45 AM. The raindrops tapping on the roof of the camper pull me out of my sleep. For this first breakfast of the road trip, I prepare delicious avocado toasts (Johan loves them!). Here in Chile, avocados are incredibly good, it would be silly not to indulge! After this little feast in the warmth (thank goodness for the heater!), we pack up and hit the road! Unfortunately, the low clouds prevent us from stopping in the Cochamo Valley. We had planned to hike to La Junta and possibly spend the night there in our tent, but with this bad weather, it\u2019s simply impossible. The \u201cPatagonia verde\u201d lives up to its reputation: gloomy! But it\u2019s not green for nothing! \"\ud83d\ude09\"\"\ud83c\udf27\"<\/p>\n

With the extra time we have, we take advantage of it to drive along the coast on the R875, leaving the Ruta 7 at Contao. We hope to see some marine wildlife such as sea lions, or even better: dolphins! The road is in bad condition, but driving slowly, we see something in the distance! Look, a head popping out of the water! And another, and another! A small group of sea lions seems to be having fun in the icy waters. \u201cOh! Over there! Look!\u201d: A dolphin just performed a beautiful jump! What a joy! I quickly make a wish as it\u2019s the very first dolphin of this expedition!<\/p>\n

Finally, we rejoin the Carretera Austral a few hours later at Hornopiren, where we will take the ferry the next morning. It\u2019s a must for travelers as there is no road to reach Caleta Gonzalo; only a ferry can get there. A ferry that, moreover, must be booked well in advance. This season, we did pretty well by booking it only 7 days in advance, but in summer, you will need to book several weeks ahead of the crossing! Head to this site<\/u><\/a> to plan your trip.<\/p>\n

During the crossing, we discover the incredible fjords of Northern Patagonia. From the deck, leaning against the railing, we keep our eyes on the huge cliffs rising before us. Meanwhile, under our feet, jellyfish are everywhere, like plastic bags floating on the water\u2019s surface, surrounding the boat on all sides. This journey feels like a real documentary film! I quickly go back down to get my hat that I left in the camper because it\u2019s very chilly! Yes, it\u2019s autumn in Patagonia, let\u2019s not forget<\/h3><\/div>

\"Camper<\/span><\/div>
Camp spot in Hornopir\u00e9n, waiting to take the ferry.<\/h5><\/div>
\"Enbarcaci\u00f3n<\/span><\/div>
Getting ready to embark the Somarco, in Hornopir\u00e9n.<\/h5><\/div>
\"vista<\/span><\/div>
Keeping an eye out for dolphins on the ferry crossing between Hornopir\u00e9n and Caleta Gonzalo, a five-hour journey through Northern Patagonia\u2019s fjords.<\/h5><\/div>

Crossing Pumalin National Park<\/h2><\/div>

Once we arrive on solid ground, we drive into the heart of Pumalin National Park, a gigantic nature reserve of 3,250 km\u00b2 where nature expresses itself in all its splendor. Less than 2% of its area is accessible to visitors, which still corresponds to about a dozen trails! This park is enormous, and we feel infinitely small within it!
\nFun fact #1: It was created by Douglas Tompkins, the co-founder of The North Face, the American outdoor clothing and accessories brand. Funny, right?
\nFun fact #2: It\u2019s one of the rainiest places in the world! This explains a lot! \"\ud83d\ude05\"
\nIt\u2019s a true sanctuary harboring exceptionally rich fauna and flora. This is also where you can admire the last Patagonian cypresses, also known as “alerces,” some of which are several thousand years old!
\nThe ferry ride and the hour of rough road that followed completely exhausted us. So, we decide to spend a night in Chait\u00e9n, in a spot found on iOverlander, our favorite road trip app. Anyway, the weather is still gloomy, making it impossible to see the surrounding volcanoes due to the low clouds. But that\u2019s part of the charm of this road trip, after all. What would Patagonia be without the raging elements?<\/h3><\/div>
\"Pueblo<\/span><\/div>
Chait\u00e9n<\/h5><\/div>

Sugar Addicts<\/h2><\/div>

Rebuilt after the volcanic eruption of 2008, Chait\u00e9n is fascinating with its wide, deserted avenues. It feels like being in an apocalypse movie! Especially since the wind is blowing like never before! If you venture into one of the coffee shops along the seawall, bundle up because they are very basic: no heating, no toilets! You\u2019ll need to run to the Tourism Office to relieve yourself, so consider yourself warned!
\nOne Earl Grey tea later, we hit the road towards the village of Futaleuf\u00fa, known for its crystal-clear waters perfect for rafting. It\u2019s a bit of a detour, especially since we\u2019ll have to backtrack to return to the Ruta 7, but we\u2019ve heard too many recommendations about this village, mostly inhabited by outdoor enthusiasts; we have to visit it. At Villa Santa Lucia, on the R7, we take route 235 followed by 233 to Futaleufu. The 76 km that separate us from the village are impressive. The road partially follows Lago Yelcho, a large crystal-clear lake surrounded by dramatic mountains. Johan stops every 2 km to take photos.
\nArriving in Futaleuf\u00fa, we understand why the region is so famous for rafting. The waters of the river of the same name are so beautifully colored that you\u2019d want to dive right in, ignoring the chilly temperatures. In autumn, few people venture out for rafting, but we see a few anyway. The cold-averse person I am doesn\u2019t really feel like getting drenched, especially at this time of year. So, we settle for a hike up to the Mirador Torre de Agua, offering a stunning view of the town. This climb makes us hungry, so we go in search of a little treat to snack on. We have to confess our guilty pleasure: we have become obsessed with Costa brand cookies. We know what you\u2019re going to say: they\u2019re super greasy and super sugary, okay, but they also have the power to make us smile when it rains (and that\u2019s priceless!). Well, there must be some in this remote place, right? \"\ud83c\udf6a\"\"\ud83e\uddd0\"
\nLunch recommendation: go try the delicious homemade lasagna at Melia. Comfort food at its best, especially if the weather is lousy!<\/em><\/h3><\/div>
\"Lago<\/span><\/div>
On the road to Futaleuf\u00fa, making a stop at Lago Yelcho. For anyone who\u2019s been to New Zealand, this is a familiar kind of sight.<\/h5><\/div>
\"Torre<\/span><\/div>
View from the mirador Torre de Agua in Futaleuf\u00fa.<\/h5><\/div>
\"Rio<\/span><\/div>
Even on a cloudy day, the turquoise color of Rio Futaleuf\u00fa is mesmerizing.<\/h5><\/div>

Beer and Relaxation<\/h2><\/div>

Back on the Carretera Austral, we head towards Puyuhuapi! But before that, we decide to make a short stop in La Junta. The landscapes continue to amaze us, and it increasingly feels like we\u2019re in Tolkien\u2019s imaginary world, filmed in New Zealand. Thanks to iOverlander, which we can no longer do without, we find an absolutely majestic wild camping spot. We\u2019re alone in the world, surrounded by magnificent mountains on the horizon, a glacial river, and a clearing that appears out of nowhere. We decide to take a well-deserved 24-hour break here, especially since the sun is back, and we really need to bask in its rays.
\nThe next day, we head towards Puyuhuapi. We would have loved to relax in its natural hot springs, but their slightly high price deterred the long-term travelers that we are! What a pity! But if your budget allows, go for it; it\u2019s said to be a true little paradise (around \u20ac60 per person).
\nInstead of spending the evening soaking in hot waters, we enjoy our first sunny aperitif of the trip because YES, the sun is still shining! A miracle! Johan finds himself a local beer (brewed by a German,
\njust like the village itself) in the local mini-market, while I toast with a refreshing ginger beer, sprawled in my camping chair (what a wonderful idea to provide this gear! Thank you CamperWorld Chile!). Aaaaaah! We\u2019re really enjoying ourselves, aren\u2019t we?<\/h3><\/div>
\"Camper<\/span><\/div>
Perhaps the best wild camp spot of all the carretera austral?<\/h5><\/div>
\"Desayuno<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"Atardecer<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"4x4<\/span><\/div>

A Hanging Glacier<\/h2><\/div>

It\u2019s 10 AM, and we\u2019re about to see a curious natural wonder: a hanging glacier. Yes, \u201changing,\u201d you read that right! Fortunately, Johan remembered to book our tickets for the national park in advance because there\u2019s no network or ticket office here! Another proof that we\u2019re truly at the end of the world!
\nAnd off we go to start the Ventisquero Colgante trail! It\u2019s relatively short (6 km round trip) with a 300-meter elevation gain to reach a stunning view of the famous hanging glacier and the waterfall flowing from it. It has rained a lot in recent days, so it\u2019s muddy and slippery, but I quickly grab onto tree branches along the trail. Unlike most people, it\u2019s not the glacier that I liked the most. I especially loved the very first part of the hike where we crossed a beautiful suspension bridge over the torrent cascading down: it was impressive!<\/h3><\/div>
\"Glaciares<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"Glaciares<\/span><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
Not sure whether the view from the hanging bridge or the view of the hanging glacier is best. Nevertheless, a hike worth doing.<\/h5><\/div>
\"Mirador<\/span><\/div>
View from the mirador overlooking the Ventisquero Colgante, with the hanging glacier in the distance.<\/h5><\/div>

Back to Civilization (or Almost)<\/h2><\/div>

The next stop on our journey is the city of Coyhaique. It marks the end of the green Patagonia and the beginning of the pampas. It\u2019s the largest city on the Carretera Austral with 50,000 inhabitants. And with “city” comes a “big supermarket.” Hooray, we can finally buy fresh fruits and vegetables again! In recent days, getting supplies was a real puzzle! Most of the mini-supermarkets we came across didn\u2019t sell any fruits or vegetables! But when it came to industrial sausages for the famous “completos,” there was plenty of choice! At least 10 kinds and all sizes! \"\ud83d\ude02\" A true institution in Chile!
\nCoyhaique is also the ideal city to fix any potential minor damages to your vehicle. It might even be your only chance, so don\u2019t let it pass! \"\ud83d\ude05\"
\n
\nLunch recommendation: definitely try the delicious tacos at La Miserable taqueria, they\u2019re amazing!<\/em>
\nQuick tip: for a nice hot shower, for only 900 pesos per person, head to the Complejo Deportivo Parque Austral sports complex.
\nAnd so ends the first part of our road trip on the Carretera Austral. To read the second part where arid landscapes, the pampas, and guanacos are omnipresent, click here.<\/h3><\/div>
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Otros Recorridos<\/p>\n<\/div>